Surfing and Life

We often use the saying just ride the wave of life and recently I have seen the parallels between surfing and life become even stronger. I have had a few moments of clarity whilst sitting out in the surf, I guess it’s a time when I’m very calm and I can think clearly. I was sitting out there a couple of days ago and I caught this awesome left, which is my back hand so I was really happy, surfing your back hand can sometimes be harder. I did a couple of turns and got heaps of speed. I began to paddle back out the back and I said to myself right now I have to get a bigger and better wave where I can do more turns and get more speed and I stopped paddling and got quite frustrated with myself. Why could I not just enjoy the awesome wave I just got instead I was desperate for the next best thing. Said this out loud to my mate I pumped into from Sydney and he said your not alone there we all do it. Unfortunately this can happen in life too. Why cant we just be content in the moment and enjoy what’s in front of us. I believe its potentially because we have been exposed to so much and we know there is so much out there, that we want to experience everything. Part of my journey whilst living in Bali is to get better at living in the moment. The Balinese do it so well. They are happy just existing, being happy they have their health and that they are alive. I have made a friend down at Kudeta beach called Made he’s an older guy and I see him nearly everyday when I go for my run or surf check, he’s a beautiful man who always grabs my hands holds them tight, bows and says good luck for everything. Bless him. Made said to me the other day ‘ Hi Anna, how are you? I said “bagus” and you and he said with a big smile on his face “I’m alive”  and he’s right its good to be alive and we should be more like this. Of course you must think of the future and not get yourself in strife and always think about the consequences to your actions, but also live for today as we take nothing but ourselves to our graves so just be happy living. So back to surfing there are other instances where I can think my life is like surfing, sometimes you can be sitting there and then all of a sudden a massive set comes out of the blue, you paddle real hard for it, duck dive get thrown all over the place and then come up take a deep breath and keep going. It’s a bit like life when something is thrown at you out from left field and your not ready for it, normally you take it on, get thrown about a bit or a lot and then try to move on. Some of us are better at continuing to paddle than others. The first saying was ride the wave of life. It’s quite interesting when you paddle for a wave whether it be big or small, you know your limits and sometime you just have to go for it or you hold back. It’s a bit like life sometimes you just need to jump in and give it a shot or sometimes you can see the signs and you know its beyond your limits and you must hold back. I have learnt a lesion from surfing though, when you go beyond your limits and jump into that solid 4 ft wave that looks like it will barrel it ends up being the wave of your life. I dropped into that solid 4 ft wave when I came to Bali. There were times where I thought I was going to fall off and crash onto the reef, there were times of high adrenaline and then there were times of pure bliss.  All I can say that this is the wave of my life and I couldn’t be happier. Please go get the wave of YOUR life.

One Response to “Surfing and Life”
  1. Shawna F says:

    Anna, this is lovely and so very true. I have been working on being grateful every day and being present in the moment. It really does make for a fulfilling life 🙂

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