Only a surfer knows the feeling

Today I have decided to write something a little light hearted and not so serious. All my posts lately have been way too serious and deep for my liking ha.

Standing ordering my coffee in a small café in Byron Bay this morning, I decide to pick up an old Tracks magazine. The first article I begin to read is about two guys that head to Bells Beach in Victoria over Easter for an amazing swell, I got slight nostalgia, I grew up in Victoria, surfed bells a couple of times when it was absolutely freezing and attended the Rip Curl Pro every year. It’s a rugged, beautiful, and special part of the world. As I read the article, it also reminds me of my experience yesterday. The article talked about the stoke of riding a wave with a buddy, or getting your first barrel and they also talked about being in their 40’s and still getting that rush like they were 14 years old on their first wave.

Yesterday I experienced my first barrel. In Bali, I got close a couple of times but I was never in the right position. It was so bizarre because I was surfing one of the busiest surf spots in Australia, who would have thought that there would be a perfect little wave for me. Didn’t expect to get my first barrel at the pass, but hey beggars can’t be chooses and damn what a great place for a first barrel. It was pumping and this wave just opened up perfectly, I lent back to slow down and get in the right position, it was crazy it was like I knew exactly what I was doing, but I didn’t ha, although a good friend of mine had explained to me blow by blow what to do when I was in Bali. Then boom, I was in a little barrel I was crouching down a little and as some guys say I dropped a few wallets ha. I was going pretty fast and I could see the wave’s opening getting smaller and smaller and all of a sudden it started closing and over the falls I went and hit the bank as there was probably about a metre of water if that under me. Being inside that wave was something else. When it is big enough to actually crouch down inside and you are getting fully covered, it’s just an experience that I will never forget. It was amazing to be in a barrel, it felt like mother nature was giving me the biggest hug ever. It was one of those days at the pass where you paddle out at the rocks and then you just get one wave after another and end up getting out at Clarke’s beach and you end up running around to the rocks again to get another few waves right into Clarke’s. For those of you that don’t know the pass, this is a good day. Getting this wave was quite unexpected I had been waiting patiently for my turn  for ages, had not got a wave yet and boom first wave, up I get, I had to pump a bit at the beginning and who would have thought that it would line up like this and I’d be sitting in a barrel.

Once I sorted myself out after going over the falls I was right down at Clarke’s, I ran out looking for my mate just wanting to tell some one, I had a huge smile on my face, giggling to myself and was feeling all fuzzy on the inside. Although the wave happened so fast, it almost felt like it was happening in slow motion as well and I can visualise it now. I think any time I have moments of sadness now I am going to take myself back to this moment. As a friend just message me that vision will never get tiring.  Lets hope next time I actually make it out of the barrel, I wonder how happy I’ll feel then? People say only surfers know the feeling, it is a bit cliche and I totally understood that about surfing but now I totally get it about getting shacked. I was smiling all day and just couldn’t get rid of this amazing feeling. It’s incredible that this occurred when I was already in such a good happy place, it just topped off the last week I have had.

One of the reasons I really wanted to share this story is for those of you that surf but are yet to get barrelled, don’t worry it will happen. Be patient. I have surfed since I was little, and have been waiting for this moment for a long time. One of my New years resolution was get barrelled. It is only the beginning of the year and I’m getting close. Getting barrelled is not the only amazing thing about surfing but it definitely makes the whole experience pretty special. Whether your just standing up or paddling out in 8 foot days keep doing what your doing, you can always take your surfing to another level and you can always learn something new, surfing it like life you just keep evolving and learning. I look forward to sharing my next surfing story with you. Also if you don’t surf I hope you get inspired to start or take whatever it is that you love to another level. It’s addictive and it’s a fantastic addiction to have. Another comment the guys said in the article in the Tracks magazine, “many people have serious addictions that can destroy ones lives, but this addiction is a damn good one.” I want to surf more and more now so I can come out of my first barrel. Until then guys, keep loving life, surfing or keep doing whatever it may be that transforms your life and makes you smile.

Comments
2 Responses to “Only a surfer knows the feeling”
  1. Jan Anderson says:

    I don’t surf,but enjoyed your description of being inside a barrel. Have you read:Breath by Tim Winton ? Happy days’ to you living with Byron. Love from 2nd cuz Jan x

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